I decided to create this audio rack because my old rack was very short and that made it very difficult for me to push buttons or change a CD. etc.
The total cost was around 70£ (local currency equivalent). I worked at this project for 3 days (during the evening after work). On the 3rd day I shortened all the electric cables for units on the back and I did a little cable management in the back, etc.
What I liked most is the matching black paint of the rack with my audio line (black both). I also like the industrial style of the rack.
- FJÄLLBO Shelving unit, black, 51×136 cm (2 pcs); Total cost 70£
FJÄLLBO shelf unit | IKEA.com
Other materials and tools
- Screwdriver and bits
- Taps & Dies (threading & rethreading tools, in fact we will use only M5 thread)
- Electric drill and drills set for steel
- Hand saw for steel
- A small file for steel
- Steel hinges 30×50 mm (2 pcs)
- Black paint spray (for hinges)
- An M5 screw hook as a door button
- Optional a wood panel (360x510x18 mm) if you don’t like the softwood received from IKEA. I didn’t liked it so I used an oak panel and IKEA SKYDD oil to treat the wood.
- Optionally you can use sandpaper (fine grit) if your new board is not enough sanded.
- Also for electric supply a block of sockets was attached with screws on the back of the rack.
DIY Audio Rack
Shorten one of the shelving unit using a hand saw. The other unit will be a donor for supplementary shelves, screws and 90 degree steel corners.
My brief calculation shows that if I keep the positions of the second and third shelves, I’ll need to intercalate equally between another 2 levels of shelves. And the distance between the shelves should be around 120 mm.
This height is enough for most of the audio units in the market.
Also the wood top of the rack should be placed at 120 mm above the top shelf.
This is the distance where you have to cut the 4 legs in order to shorten the unit. Measure twice and cuts once.
Another 28 holes should be done for placing in the right location the new shelves and also the top of the unit. Again, check twice before drill once.
The lower shelf in original configuration was not mounted.
One of the two remaining shelves was used as a door for the lower compartment. I used the same black M5 screws to mount the hinges. I drilled the holes in the right position (with a 3,5 mm drill) and used a M5 tap to create metric thread in steel.
What to pay special attention to?
Pay special attention to measuring the exact of position of the holes in each of the 4 feet.
What would I have done it differently?
Well, I realized at the end that mounting the hinges on right side would have been much better for me but it works also on left side.
~ by Cornel