I was really struggling in sourcing a bespoke under-eaves loft wardrobe for a recent loft conversion I had done.
After researching on the Internet I realised this bespoke loft storage would run into thousands of pounds which I didn’t want to spend. Because of that, I decided to tackle it myself.
IKEA products required:
- 1 x PAX wardrobe frame (50x35x236) (One of the side panels used on tallest left hand panel. The other side to be used for frame top and to construct the 350mm frame.)
- 2 x wardrobe frame (100x35x201) (One of the side panels used on the tallest right hand panel. The other side for frame top and to construct 350mm frame)
- 3 x BALLSTAD door (50×195)
- 1 x BALLSTAD door 50×229)
- 4 x KOMPLEMENT drawer (100×35)
- 2 x KOMPLEMENT shelf (100×35)
- 4 x KOMPLEMENT mesh basket (100×35)
- 3 x 12 hinges (3 pack of 4 soft closing hinges)
Other materials required:
- 1 box of screws (various sizes)
- 15mm white gloss Fablon vinyl wrap (similar one here)
- 15m roll of iron on veneer
- Plastic joining block, pack of 20
- Circular saw
- Chop saw
- Various size clamps
- 150mm.300mm,500mm.1000mm steel ruler
- Tape measure
- Drill gun
- Spirit level
- Screw drivers (various)
- Digital protractor
- 2 work benches joined together with large piece of chip board to create work station
- 35mm pocket drill to cut hinge holes in doors
- Drill pack 1mm to 6mm
- Veneer cutter tool
Bespoke loft wardrobe hack
Assembling the loft wardrobe frames + cutting angles
As you can see from the photos, the first task was to build the standard frames up (two 35×100 frames). Then, measure them against the eaves to get the correct height for the sides that need to be cut down.
You will require a digital protractor as you would need to cut the tops off at the same angle as your eaves. This is so it runs in the same line.
Your wardrobe frame top panel will fit between the side panels (as on a standard set up). Because of that, the top edges of the side panels would also need to be cut at the correct angle to fit in snugly.
Fixing the loft wardrobe frames together
Once you have achieved this, fix the 2 frames together with clamps. Then, use the joining bolts that came with the wardrobe frames to pin them together.
The small cupboard was made by purchasing a 50×35 wardrobe frame then cutting it down on one side to fit the gap on the left end of the room, which was about 350mm wide.
Duplicating the holes for hardware
You need to copy all drill holes from the cut off section (which is your scrap piece) back onto the sawn face. This will enable you to assemble the wardrobe like a standard wardrobe frame.
All wardrobe top shelf supports on all frames are the tops that came with the standard wardrobe frames. These panels are too short to build the top of your completed frame of your finished wardrobe. I then reinforced with 2 additional 100×35 shelves.
Related: Under eaves storage with IKEA TARVA
The actual top frame for the wardrobe was made from the 2 sides that were left over from the wardrobe frame that was cut down. (I didn’t need to buy extra wood. Used all the cut off pieces.) This was the main frame completed.
I only purchased 4 doors. Luck would have it that when I cut down to the correct angle, I had enough off cuts left over to make the small 350mm frame door. As you can see I cut down the doors, which were all square to start.
Fit hinges to loft wardrobe
All the doors required new 35mm holes to be pocket drilled into them to accommodate the new frame to fix hinges. Some of the original holes could be used but new ones were required to enable the doors to be mounted. I used several steel rulers as they were more accurate.
I used the centre of the bottom original 35mm hole on the 4 doors as the datum edge to measure where to drill the new pocket holes. As for matching them up to fit the pre drilled holes in the wardrobe frame I used the centre of the the original first hinge fixing holes as the datum edge. That way all hinges would line up perfect.
I mounted all the doors onto the frame once this was done. Then, I drew a pencil line from the back to get the correct angle on all the doors. (You’ll need a mitre saw for all cuts. Cut upside down to prevent chipping.) I finished all sawn edges with iron on veneer tape.
The 350mm frame was tricky as it needed cutting down a lot more. I made the 2 small shelf sections on the frame with the off cuts of wood left over. After that, I fitted all the drawer, shelves into the frame. (You won’t need to drill as it simply fits all the pre drilled original holes).
Add gloss finish to loft wardrobe
I wanted gloss finish doors. But at £50 a door, I know they would be spoilt as soon as I tried to cut them down as a result of chipping on edge when cut with the mitre saw.
I got round this by using a roll of vinyl gloss sheet (15m roll) to cover the cheaper BALLSTAD doors. I’m going to install push to open catches on the loft wardrobe frame, as I don’t want any door handles to give a flush fitting look.
As you can see because there are no centre supports in the frames. I needed to fit 2 false panels to finish off the design, fixed down with plastic joining blocks.
~ by Dave Hartland