Hackers Help WasherDryerFridge

Published on June 2nd, 2014 | by 2catou

7

Hackers Help: Hiding stackable top-load washer/dryer in AKURUM high cabinet





Hi,

I have long admired the ikeahacking work here — and now I need help! I want to hide my stackable washer/dryer inside an AKURUM cabinet. They are too deep of course, and I need to be able to roll out the washer.

Can I just leave the back ‘undone’ — and not put in a toe-kick?

Here are the dimensions of the washer dryer and I’ve included a picture.
24″ W x 78″ H x 31″ D

WasherDryerFridge

Any help would be appreciated… especially since I’ve already bought the cabinet!

BESTÅ BURS wall shelf turned into a makeup vanity
Hemnes Coffee Table Chalkboard

The Author

2catou

7 Responses to Hackers Help: Hiding stackable top-load washer/dryer in AKURUM high cabinet

  1. Colin Young says:

    Assuming the cabinet is tall enough, your main issue is going to be anchoring the bottom of the right hand panel. The simplest solution is a cleat on the floor. You can use the bottom panel as a spacing template to set up the right hand panel before permanently anchoring it to the floor. Make sure everything is square and level. Do not assume your floor or walls are level or perpendicular (not that I’ve ever encountered anything like that). If possible attach the doors to check how they meet up. You’ll need a helper or 2 for that.

    You definitely want the laundry unit to sit directly on the floor.

    Anchor the left panel to the wall, and you can leave the back off with no problem. You can cover the gap in depth with a cover panel (e.g. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60200925/).

  2. 2catou 2catou says:

    Thanks so much Colin! I wasn’t sure how long it would take for an answer, and I’m so pleased it was quick. I will find a helper and post the ‘after’ pic.

    I think the main problem will be the doors, since they’ll be so close to the floor. It’s a new kitchen, and despite that, the floors are a bit crooked. I’ll be careful with the level.

    Catou

  3. 2catou 2catou says:

    I’ve come down from the excitement of getting an answer — only to realize I should have asked a few questions. What do you mean by cleat? Wood, metal, outside the cabinet or inside? Also, I’m thinking about leaving it as is — without trying to make up for the depth problem.

    What do you think?

    Catou

    • Colin Young says:

      I’d put the cleat on the inside, for appearance.

      You could also use those inexpensive metal 90 degree angle brackets on the inside. As much as I’m not a fan of them, in this case they might be a better solution since they could make up for some variation in the floor. Attach them to the side panel first, then when you get that all aligned with the doors properly aligned, mark the holes on the floor and pre-drill them. Don’t attempt to use self-drilling screws. That will almost guarantee you’ll end up getting them in the wrong spot and ruining the door alignment.

      It just occurred to me that you could use part of the bottom panel for the cleat, assuming you’ve got enough clearance beside the laundry equipment. You’d want to keep the part that the knockdown posts engage with (maybe a 1-2″ strip), and screw that to the floor. I’d attach it to the side panel first, and you may need a bit of shimming underneath since IIRC, the side panels protrude by maybe 0.5-1 mm past the top/bottom panels. But, I think in this case, the brackets might be the better and easier solution.

  4. Michael says:

    The exhaust pipe you have there makes me worried. Better to get one that is insulated on the outside. They get bloody hot those things and you don’t want to cause a fire.

  5. Reed says:

    How has this worked for you? I’m trying to do the exact same thing with a stacked washer/dryer.

  6. 2catou 2catou says:

    Thanks Colin for your help — it’s worked out great.
    I used the bottom of the cabinet to help with the measures – put 4 metal brackets inside, and a bit amateurish, but it worked: felt tabs to help elevate the whole thing so the doors would open properly.

    I also ended up attaching it to a pantry to the left, which gives it more stability.

    In the end, I was even able to use one of the shelves, which is great for folding laundry.

    I’ll post photos.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

Back to Top ↑

  • CoverCouch
    Null
    Overlays
    Null
    Null

  • Knesting

    Covercouch


  • See the Best of the Best

    See the Best of the Best

Twitter Auto Publish Powered By : XYZScripts.com