Landing kallax mudroom5a

Published on May 27th, 2014 | by Jules Yap


KALLAX mudroom

kallax mudroom5a

kallax mudroom6a

kallax mudroom4a

Materials: Kallax 2X4, 1X4, 2X2, Drona box, Akerby countertop, Kallax door, Kallax drawers, Perfekt plinth.

I wanted a nice built-in mud room for our new house, but didn’t have the time to commit to making custom millwork. Kallax to the rescue!

IKEA gods say “do not hang 2×4 Kallax on the wall”. Using an extra pair of wall brackets scavenged from a set of Akurum cabinets, I tempted fate and have mounted it to the wall. This has Drona boxes and Kallax door units in it.

kallax mudroom1
kallax mudroom2
kallax mudroom3

To build the storage bench and “drop zone” counter, I built a 4 1/2″ tall kick box from 1/2″ plywood. After this was leveled to the floor with shims, the Kallax units could be attached. To fit the available length, the 1×4 unit had to be cut down before assembly. Have no fear! This is easily done, and the side panels will screw right on after drilling the matching holes. The bottom 2X2 and 1X3.5 units are held out from the wall to maximize the 22″ depth the mudroom cubby has to offer. I attached a melamine back to the 1X3.5 unit to finish the back of the cubes and prevent stuff falling out into no-mans land. This is not needed on the 2X2, as it is populated with door and drawer units. One of the cutoffs from the 1X4 is used to close off the open end of the 2X2 unit.

After the finished 1X3.5 and 2X2 Kallax units were attached to the kick box, Akerby countertop was cut and scribed to fit the wall. The birch Akerby is a match for the birch door and drawer units, and is a less expensive option than Numerar. The Akerby tops are held on by a few blobs of silicone, and will be finished in a clear poly. Stainless-look Perfekt plinth is siliconed to the kick box to finish the millwork.

A great built-in look with off the shelf components! About $450 US and 5 hours.

~ Carl Crawford

Guillotined Expedit
MANDAL Headboard to wardrobe conversion

The Author

Jules Yap

"I am Jules, the engine behind IKEAHackers and the one who keeps this site up and running. My mission is to capture all the wonderful, inspiring, clever hacks and ideas for our much loved IKEA items".

6 Responses to KALLAX mudroom

  1. Sara says:

    Can you tell me the exact, precise thickness of the outside frame pieces on the kallax please?

  2. audrey says:

    Hi found your site while looking for info on what the kallax walls/shelves are made up of. I have just bought 2 4×4′s and 1 2×4 kallax units, my plan is to attach them all together with the 2×4 laying on the side between the 4×4′s. My problem is that my room dimensions are just a few inches shorter than the unit will allow. Can I cut the 2×4 to resize it to fit? Are the sides solid internal to re drill and put together after trimming them? Help! I’m about web searched out (sigh)…

    • Peter says:

      So, have you cutted the 2×4 to fit? Is it possible to put togehter solid after trimming? I’m having the same question..

  3. tj says:

    good info Mark. Thank you. I’ve just finished this weekend a wall mounted headboard made out of one 2 x 4 horizontally oriented Kallax with a 2 x 2 mounted above it. (think kind of an L shaped set of boxes) . I started out thinking I would use an Akurum rail since the mounting brackets on the Kallax are the same as those on the kitchen cabinets. But quickly changed gears for looks as well as structural support . I used the corner brackets as you suggested on all corners of both units. I then used full length french cleats (made from 3/4 inch plywood ripped to 4 inches wide then again in half lengthwise at a 45 angle to make the cleats) to mount both units. I screwed the cleats in at about one foot intervals. I placed one set of french cleats at the top of the units and also one along the bottom edge since I had to put a spacer in there anyway to make them hang straight off the wall. I also nailed into place a 2 x 2 supportive ledge under the bottom edge of the long kallax. Hopefully this will give structural integrity to my creation. The thing is not even nailed to the wall! it simply rests on its french cleats and ledge very securely on its almost invisible supports. it looks fabulous. Have I committed any structural boo boos? if so, please post. As I said, its not nailed to the wall in any way so adjustments are possible.

  4. Mark says:

    The reason they say not to mount them sideways is the long edge needs support, it can’t take any weight over time.

    The long sides are glued together thin sheets of chipboard with cardboard internally meshed to give a little strength. Where the long sides (the ’4′ length) meets the ends (the ’2′ length) is a chipboard block glued on and some mounting hardware so they bolt together. In normal mode there is no lateral load on those as it’s either sitting on the ground longways, or running vertically with no load.

    What I saw (and managed to save it from total collapse by about 15 seconds) was the long sides will come apart when you wall mount it, the thin sheets unglueing off the blocks and starting to warp. If you leave it long enough then it gets worse until the whole bottom edge of the suspended 2×4 Expedit falls down and anything sitting in the shelves comes with it. You don’t even need a lot of weight, just a few kg in each hole.

    If you want yours to survive, you need to reinforce the lower side, bolting it to the verticals so there is no stress on the ends of the long base. A right angle support around the outside corners would do the job. Even those thin metal bookends etc.

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