Wednesday, October 31, 2012
Materials: Two Klimat Lamps only
Description: My Hack consist in combining two Klimat lamps into one.
I have always like projector lightning which Ikea's Klimat is a good example, but unfortunately one lamp wasn't enough for my living room because all the three ceiling illumination spots are double.
So I bought two for the same spot avoiding a dead switch on the wall. At first I planned on mounting them side-by-side but then I thought, what the heck! ...it's possible to mount them vertically. And this is what I've done:
1- One drill hole at the center of the knot that holds the 3 projectors in one of the lamps, so that the cables of the other lamp can pass through and attach the chrome pipe.
2- Once mounted, I cut all the excessive electrical cables of the upper lamp because the knot they must fit in is very small and already has the cable from the lower lamp.
3- Tricky part. Unwrapped both power supplies from its plastic shell which raised security issues and hot glued them together. So if you're not aware of the electrical current basics, don't try this at home or any other place.
4- Used a soldering iron to trim the plastic interior of the ceiling hold to fit in the two power units and connected all the cables, and that's it.
~ Rui Neto, Oporto
Materials: IKEA HELMER rolling drawer unit, PVC tube, casters
Description: My daughter was so impressed with the service on Singapore Airlines this summer that she wanted to be a "Singapore Girl" for Halloween. It just so happened that a PANYL customer had turned me onto the IKEA HELMER a few weeks earlier. This metal drawer unit on wheels turned out to be the perfect size for a miniature beverage trolley.
For a handle, we fastened a piece of 1¼" PVC tube between the sides of one drawer, instead of the snap on drawer front. We used heavy-duty double-sided tape to attach this drawer to the top surface of the HELMER. This would be the open bin for the taller bottles and cups.
1 x LACK side table
3 large tubs of LEGO
Hairpin table legs and screws
Glass table top (custom cut to size 597mm x 567mm x 5mmm)
For the table:
1. Attach the hairpin legs to the Lack table top using screws.
To build the LEGO top:
You will use the top of the Lack as a form to construct your LEGO around.
For the top and two sides, I used single-depth bricks (1x1, 1x2, 1x3...1x8):
1. Make a long strip of 71 brick widths
2. Connect the next row, but with 69 brick widths (centred to the row above)
3. On both ends of this row, attach a brick at right angles down the side of the table top
Tuesday, October 30, 2012
Materials: 4 x VIKA AMON high gloss RED (150 x 75 cm), 2 x wall shelf (similar to LACK, but from local HW supply since I wanted them in high gloss), battens from local HW supply, LED light strips (not IKEA since sold out on day of my visit), 4 x wall outlets, 2 x light switches, various screws and hinges
Description: My wife and I wanted to spice up our fairly boring bedroom in our newly built house and after long considerations chose to create a killer headboard from IKEA parts.
Materials: Bolmen Stool & Lillangen Chair seat
Description: I wanted some really funky cool kids chairs to match my boys homemade LEGO table, so I set off to Ikea & came up with this idea: I bought 2 Bolmen bathroom stools & 2 Lillangen chair seats (one blue & one green), then set off to make them up.
You'll need: A drill, A screw driver, All purpose glue (for wood & plastic) 4 blocks of wood approx 8cm L x 3 cm w x 1.5 cm Thick(for stabilizing the chair seat to the stool), 8 screws with flat heads (because they'll be uncomfy to sit on with rounded head screws).
Monday, October 29, 2012
Materials: 2 Ikea Galant (?) Add-on Cabinets, Ikea Rationell Variera Drawer Mat, Ikea Hinges, Magnetic Cat Door, Saw, Drill, Forstner bit
Description: I know this hack has been shown a million times, but I think I added a couple improvements. I found 2 Galant (I think) add-on units in the 'As-Is' section of Ikea. Each had 2 sides and 2 ends. I disassembled one, making a 3rd side and lid. I drilled hinge holes into the lid and mounted it so it could be opened from the top. I also cut-down one of the ends to fit inside as a partition. I cut 2 'cat door size' holes, one in the end and one in the partition and install a store bought cat door on the outer end. I also lined the bottom with the Rationell Variera drawer mat.
Materials: Ikea Lillangen Sink Base Cabinet with legs, Ikeal Filur Trash Bins, Ikea Cabinet Door Panel (Unknown series), Ikea Hinges, Saw, Drill, Forstner Bit, Belt Sander
Description: I was in Ikea looking for those 'in cabinet trash receptacles'. Unfortunately, they were smaller than I wanted. As I was walking out, I saw the Lillangen Sink Base Cabinet on clearance and thought it was about the right size. I grabbed 2 Filur trash bins - and they fit PERFECTLY. On the way out, stopped in the 'As-Is' department and grabbed a flat cabinet door panel (unknown series) and a couple of the hinges.
I moved the back supports on the cabinet to the top, giving me a support for the hinges and a hanging area for the trash bins. I had to cut the door panel down to size (length and width), fitting it with hinges and it became a top lid. I also had to flip the cabinet floor as it had a support in front that I moved to the back. BTW, I used the stock hidden hardware, drilling new holes inside so I wouldn't have to drill screws through from the outside.
Friday, October 26, 2012
Materials: Stainless Steel, Aluminium ( Aluminum ), Acrylic, Electronics, Oh and Ikea Blanda bowls!
Description: A 22nd century autonomous droid like device designed to repair the subterranean fracture damage caused by Shale and Coal Gas mining called Hydraulic Fracking that was done during the late 20th and early 21st centuries.
IKEA items used for this work that I call the "Fracking Repair Droid" were some IKEA kitchen condiment bowls in stainless steel called "Blanda" - a 50mm diameter size and a 120mm size.
The Blanda bowls are used in the knee joints and for the main top and bottom body bowls. I used 12 small 50mm Blanda bowls for the knee joints, six made up the spherical shape and another six made up the smaller backing cups ... these hide the centre screws that holds the two hemispheres together. In between the two hemispheres is a plate of acrylic machined to emit light from 2 LEDs in each knee joint.
Materials: Tidaholm kitchen cabinets, Metrik handles, solid oak hardwood flooring, ethanol fireplace insert, metal studs, drywall, glass tile
Description: First we built the toe kick for the cabinets out of 1x3 fir.
We used 30x15x24 IKEA cabinets. We only wanted the finished cabinets to be about 18-20 inches deep, so we cut off about 2-3 inches off the backs of the cabinets after they were assembled. Then we set them onto the toe kick and secured everything.
Next we built a bump-out out of metal studs that would house our ethanol fireplace insert.
We were going to clad the fireplace in glass tile, so we spent quite a bit of time calculating where the studs should sit so that after drywall the width and height would add up to the exact with of our 1x2 inch glass tile with 1x1 inch glass tile that would fill in the end of each row.
Thursday, October 25, 2012
Materials: Rektangel Vase (00215576), Ribba Frame (70243528), Dioder lights (40192356)
Description: From the frame, discard everything but the frame itself and the paper. Fix the paper in front of the frame with some adhesive tape. Use the Dioder strip and place it along the inside border of the frame, fixing it with more adhesive tape to the paper.
Materials: EXPEDIT 2x4
Description: It all started when I realized that my new stereo receiver would not fit inside a standard EXPEDIT 13" x 13" cubby. I found a mod on here on how to easily double one up, and it just went from there.
So I'll start from the left and move right.
In the left-most column, I simply drilled four new holes about 3" higher than they initially were to accommodate my PC tower below and SNES on top, and installed the shelf at that height instead.
In the middle double-column, you are seeing a reversal of parts. Normally the longer board goes vertical, and then short boards horizontal. Instead, I have a short board vertical on the bottom, and the long board horizontal across the middle, without completing and instead leaving the other short board out. (Which now acts as a rolling platform on castors for my printer, which hides under a table for space-saving.)
Then, I felt there was too much room above my receiver, so I went to work again. I acquired an extra long board from my local IKEA's spare parts section, and installed it above my receiver to add an extra shelf.
NOTE: Because the cubby-spaces are now misaligned, the holes I drilled for the custom height are exposed on the opposite side. To compensate for this, I had to first cut the little wooden pegs in half using bolt cutters so they did not stick out, and second, fill the remainder of the hole with Poly-Fila and paint over it. (Not pictured.)
Wednesday, October 24, 2012
Materials: Expedit 4x2, GLADSAX frames
Description: any ideas/suggestion?
Me + boyfriend decided to apply doors to our Expedit (being too messy at the moment).
I was thinking if anyone has used GLADSAX frames as doors and in case if he/she can help us with the hack.
GLADSAX sizes seem to fit quite well if applied to the EXPEDIT but I would love to be sure in order to avoid wasting money + a quite new bookcase...
Any suggestion/tip would be really appreciated...
~ chiara, Milan, Italy
Materials: Hemnes shoe cabinet
Description: Do you remember the inspiring ScrapHacker's idea "HEMNES gets a double topping"?
I've decided to use it in my hallway, following the anonymous comment of removing one of the "sides" in the middle. Actually, instead of that, I've decided to keep both inner "sides" and I've removed one of the inner columns, as you can see in this photo.
Materials: PERSONLIG kitchen tabletop & Vika Moliden stands
Description: As I'm an avid fan of 'post your desk topics/workspace forum threads', I thought it might be nice to share the IKEA hack in use in my own workspace.
Last year I decided to refurbish my home office, to create a space that enables me to do my work in the most optimum way and of course that is pleasing to the eye. The first thing that came to mind was a whiteboard, I bought a really big one. However its 5 to 6 feet away from my desk and I realized I didn't use it enough due to 'distance'.
Sitting behind the desk while on the phone or just using my computer I found myself scribbling on pieces of paper instead of getting out of my chair and walk over to the whiteboard. So I needed a small whiteboard I could grab and use at my desk, sounds like a plan however I like minimalistic designs where as much 'clutter' is removed as possible. I needed to come up with something different, enter the whiteboard desk!
Tuesday, October 23, 2012
Description: Coveting a desk I'd found on-line five years ago and not being able to find it in my area nor probably afford it, the following was my solution.
We bought the Hemnes desk with add-on unit plus one more add-on unit to get the height I was looking for.
Hubby cut down the top piece to a little wider than the add-on unit and then stacked the second add-on unit on top.
I figure I got my longed-for office space for about a third of the price.
Materials: Malm 4- Drawer, Billy Bookcase
Description: We noticed that the Billy Bookcase and the Malm dressers have the same width. We decided to stack one on top of the other to create a built-in-look while giving us some additional storage. We built each of the two dressers as instructed. For the Billy shelves, we build them as instructed, except we did not attach the top or the back.
Next, we turned the Billy upside down and placed it on top of the Malm. Thus, the base of the Billy is actually the at the top of our shelves. This allowed the top of the Malm to be accessible without being obstructed by the bottom shelf and base of the Billy. The Billy and the Malm are held together by brackets. We also attached each piece to the wall. We then trimmed the base of the billy (now the top of our shelves) with crown molding to give it a built-in look. We also trimmed the bottom of the Malms.
Monday, October 22, 2012
Description: Hi, I moved in together with my boyfriend about a year ago. It's a tiny apartment and we have too much stuff.
Our biggest problem at the moment is that before we moved in, we had already bought PS chairs from the 2011 collection (saga). We didn't have a table yet, until one day we were in IKEA and they were selling out the Skoghall dining set for just €50, which is cheaper than most tables, so we bought it.
So basically my question is this: are there any ways I can use these chairs as not-chairs? Like for storage or...
Important: They are not stackable!
Also IKEA's own idea of hanging them up and using them as shelves is not something we can do as we can't hang anything on the walls in the living room and the bedroom is too small for that.
~ Katinka W, Belgium
Materials: Don't know Ikea model name, mirror, glass, putty knife, grout, mastic
Description: I bought an Ikea coffee table at a garage sale for $25. At the same time, I purchased some glass 'seconds' for $1/ pound. These were free-form, poured glass with small copper wire hangers embedded. I snipped off any external wire. There was also some broken mirror in the $1/pound bin so I bought that too. I ended up spending about $20 more on thick mirror from craigslist.
I gave the tabletop a light sand. Before starting a project with clear glass, you may want to paint the surface the same color as the mastic you will use. As it dries, it will shrink and the surface color below will be seen. I donât mind this cracked effect, but others might. Next, I laid out the poured glass pieces. I didn't quite have enough to go all the way to the edge so I recessed them about an inch. I also included flattened glass balls from craft shops (for vases and such) where each blob met.
Materials: Borrby Lantern
Description: We thought it would be a great fall idea to color the glass in our Ikea Borrby lanterns. Using theatrical lighting gels, available at any theatrical supply shop for pennies, we cut to fit and adhered them with just Windex. Simply squeegee out the excess with a credit card. No need to cut a perfect size either, all the edges are inside the lamp.
So simple and what a difference it makes to the "plain Jane" lanterns.
Friday, October 19, 2012
Materials: Expedit Workstation (598.613.42, $119.99), 1 * Ledberg 3-piece light strip (501.920.73, $14.99), 1 * Capita leg (200.495.38, $14.00), 1 * Ekby Hemnes Shelf (501.787.79, $14.99)
Description: A great small form standing desk for about $150 using a (slightly modified) Expedit workstation.
1. Construct the shelving unit. I left out the the bottom shelf and divider as that's where the computer will sit.
Raise the bottom of the unit 5cm (2") off the floor or you'll end up with a slanted desk! You could use the spare pieces from the bottom shelf you didn't put in, I had a piece of an old Expedit 2x2 unit knocking around that I used instead.
Materials: Detolf Glass Cabinet
Description: I wanted something smart for my 2 corn snakes to live in. I work for Ikea and my house currently has 90% Ikea furniture. So it was important it fitted in with the rest. Then one day it came to me.
I saw the Detolf display cabinet and thought I can hack this, so I did.
First thing was to build it. I left out the glass shelves and added a twin spot light also from Ikea. Sorry forgot the name of it. Got a detolf cabinet lock off ebay for it. Added some shelves made of wood and some decorations, then added a background which is stuck on from the back.
Materials: VIKA AMON, EXPEDIT, CAPITA
Description: Step 1: add wheels to the Expedit unit
Step 2: screw Capitas on Expedit
Step 3: screw Vika Amon with Capitas
Budget: bar + stools (from amazon) $250
Materials: Edland bedside table
Description: We wanted to create a rough luxe bathroom, so needed some fittings that would look polished against our newly concreted walls. Actual bathroom cabinets were too small or too boxy, and almost always in brown or white. So when we saw the Edland bedside table it was a no-brainer to pair it with a simple square basin and single tap.
Thursday, October 18, 2012
Materials: BEKVAM Step Stool, SIGNUM Cable Outlet Kit
Description: The problem: I was looking for a step-stool for my 2-year old to have access to the sink for brushing her teeth and to stand at the kitchen counter to at least "participate" in food prep. Ikea's step-stool options in this regard are pretty lacking and don't give little ones anything to hold on to. The the best non-ikea options I found online were in the $150 range.
The solution: I started with Bekvam step stool ($14.99), and bought some pine wood boards-- I used two 36"x8"x1" boards, one 24"x8"x1", and one 24"x4"x1" board, but you can tailor it to whatever size you want. The only other items I purchased were adhesive rubber bumpers for the feet to keep the stool from sliding and some wood screws.
For the side pieces, I traced a half circle and used my jigsaw to cut the rounded edges on one end of each board.
I had an old Signum cable outlet kit, and used the drill bit to cut the circle openings on each end.
I then installed the side pieces-- Bekvam sides are slightly angled, so it makes for some tricky angles. I wasn't comfortable trying to calculate those angles, so figured I would just install the sides and figure it out from there.
I pre-drilled holes, and then fastened the side pieces with the wood screws. I then added the additional support piece on the bottom, and the cross bar on the top-- first tracing the lines with a pencil, and then cutting with the jigsaw to the right size. I again pre-drilled holes and fastened with screws. (A mitre-box saw would also expedite this process.)
Then, a light hand sanding of the cut areas to ensure no splinters, and application of the rubber bumpers to ensure it doesn't slide out, and you're all done.
So, total supplies:
1 SIGNUM drill bit
2 pieces of wood for sides
2 pieces of wood for stabilizing bars
12-14 wood screws
Rubber bumpers for feet.
~ Ellie's HackerDad, United States
Description: The Ikea chair was reupholstered in white leather with a silver studded trim.
The footrest was reupholstered with chevron zigzag material i bought from amazon.
The Ikea frame was painted in white (3 coats) and then given a gloss finish (1 coat of spray).
The Oleg (deer head) was purchased from WhiteFauxTaxidermy on Etsy.
The printed cushion is inspired by vintage Egyptian movie posters of the 1950's and I bought from mishmaoul.com
the black & white coushin is from Ikea (last season's so it was discounted).
The white sheepskin Rug is also from Ikea (LUDDE)
And finally the decorative dog was from a local store.
~ nawwarah82, Saudi Arabia
Materials: Hemnes and Besta systems
Description: 1.First built up stands for the bookcases to sit on top.
2.Then place bookcase on top and anchored to the wall.
3. Placed extensions on top of bookshelves.
4. Placed Hemnes TV Table in middle and Hemnes Bridge anchored to wall.
5. To finish added flat base across the bottom then base board. Between the extension and bookcase added a base board. Top finished with crown molding. Added some quarter round on sides in the middle where TV sits and inside of the bridge.
~ Sherri B
Materials: Billy Bookcase
Description: We have quite an extensive book collection and didn't want boring bookcases. We also didn't have a ton of money.
Base board heater prevented putting anything directly on the floor in front of the wall. We screwed a board to the back wall (same as is done with the lower Ikea kitchen cabinets). We then bought metal flanges and pipe from the hardware store and set a board across from the wall to the flanges. Set the bookcases on the board and secured.
Wednesday, October 17, 2012
Materials: iPhone + catalog
Description: I wanted to picture Ikea furniture in my house before I bought anything.
Mainly for one reason: returning things is a pain in the ass.
So me and 2 friends hacked together an iPhone app that does just that.
It's called Ikea Now.
Materials: TRABY, jigsaw, staple gun.
Description: We had four pet rats for a while, and they needed a comfortable, yet stimulating place to live, when they weren't running loose (under close supervision.) We decided to do an IKEA Hack, before we knew there was such a thing. The exact item we used (TRABY) has been discontinued, but there is a very similar one in EXPEDIT, sort of a modular, four-cubbyhole storage unit. The older unit came with pressboard/veneer doors, or glass doors were an optional extra. We got two of the units, and three of the glass doors.
The units came with legs...we discarded one set, and clamped the two units one atop the other, and installed one set of legs. This gave us about a 6 foot tall unit, with 8 cubbyholes. We used to bottom two for storage of food and bedding material, and installed the solid doors. The three glass doors were installed in an alternating pattern. We cut large, rounded holes in the three remaining solid doors, and covered them with chicken wire. We trimmed the inside of the doors with strip wood to cover the edges of the wire.
Materials: Ikea Torsby frame, 7176 Lego bricks, 12mm multiplex plate, 6mm tempered glass, brackets, screws
Description: I was looking for a table for my new house. While browsing the internet for idea's I came across this wonderful Lego table.
That made me wonder if I could make something like that myself. I turns out I could.
Materials: Antilop highchair
Description: I have a 2 year old daughter who has developmental delays and cannot yet sit unaided in a bar stool. We wanted to get her a height adjustable highchair and so she can join her twin sister and us for meals at our kitchen island....
Unfortunately nothing on the market fit our needs and wants. We had an Ikea Antilop highchair to use outside in the summer, so I decided to find a way to mount this to a gas lift adjustable stool base. I bought a gas lift stool second hand, took the seat off. then simply drilled holes in the seat of the Antilop highchair in the appropriate places and bolted this into the gas lift stool base. It looks fabulous, is very sturdy and we are very very happy with it
~ Jo A
Tuesday, October 16, 2012
Materials: Billy bookcases, trim, baseboard
Description: I take no credit for this hack, only for posting it to this website!
The season premiere of Ask This Old House included a full demo about how to create built-in bookshelves using the Billy. You can watch the full video here.
Materials: 2 Molger bathroom organizers, several chunks of scrap wood, measuring tape or yardstick, 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, plexiglass, screws (molly bolts if needed), drill, hammer and a nail, screw driver, level, and adhesive rubber shelf stoppers
Description: 1. Lie the two Molgers next to one another on their long edges. You have the option of either creating shelving so that the inside "basket" of the caddy faces inward or outward. Just be sure to be consistent when drilling your holes. Using the drill, prep your Molger bath caddy by drilling two holes 8 1/8" apart on one of the long sides of the caddy. Repeat on the other caddy. I found it helpful to stuff some blocks of spare wood under the edge on which I was drilling.
Materials: Expedit (Large - 185x185 cm), Dioder (Multicolor)
Description: Recently, I finally got a new turntable, amp, and speakers to listen to my collection of LPs. I wanted a functional yet attractive place to store my LPs as well as house my turntable, amp, & speakers without having to throw off the symmetry of the room by placing the speakers outside of the unit. I went back and forth between maybe getting the smaller, bookcase style (79x149 cm) Expedit unit and putting the turntable & amp on top, with the speakers on the sides, but once I saw the larger Expedit and thought of a way to do what you see in the picture, I had to go with it.
Here's what I did...
1) Unbox Expedit & make sure all the parts are there. (I laid a large blanket out on the floor to avoid scratching it any more than it already is).
2) In order to allow enough space for the speakers & turntable/amp, I had to cut* the top and bottom long shelves to make room. The thing to be sure of is that the cut pieces will overlap the edges of the vertical supports so that you can properly fit the dowels through. The top cut measurements are approximately 35.5 cm, and the bottom is approximately 108 cm.
3) Next, I planed and sanded down the rough from the cut. Depending on the type of saw and blade you may have a smoother cut, but it is particle board inside so you'll want to sand it down a little bit.
4) Depending on the color of Expedit you choose, get some decent wood stain and lightly stain the bare edges. Be sure to have a rag handy during this part to wipe down any runs or bubbles.
5) Now came the fun part, putting it together.
5.1) I began from the bottom up, and fastened the bottom to the right side. Then I put the dowels in for the bottom vertical supports. I used a dab of wood glue to add some stability to each dowel, but it's optional. I continued doing this until I got to the fourth level shelf (second full length shelf, where the turntable & amp are sitting).
5.2) For that shelf, I had to cut the four center dowels to allow for support, but so that they wouldn't stick out through the top. You could use some wood filler to fill the small holes left, but I haven't gotten around to that yet.
5.3) Once I had all the shelves in place, it was time to fasten the other side, then the top. It was a bit tricky getting the dowels to fit, but just take it easy and you'll get it. Then fasten the top using the screws and make sure to tighten all the screws one last time (I used a drill with different torque settings, which I would recommend. This is a large unit without all of the pieces, so I wouldn't trust hand tightening alone.)
6) At this point, I put the adhesive-backed felt "feet" on the bottom and stood the unit up (have a friend help you, it's pretty heavy). It's possible to slide on a smooth surface, even when loaded with the equipment, but for carpeting you may want to consider some other kind of footing, and definitely fasten it to the wall.
7) I opened & tested the Dioder light kit, then ran them end to end rather than separately along the back, using the adhesive strips to fasten them to the top.
That's pretty much it. As you can see, I still have to work out the cable management in the back, I was just too tired after putting it all together to worry about that (I had also just painted the room). It's definitely easy enough to use some cable fasteners and run them in line with the shelves, just plan the routes out before running your speaker wire to make sure you have enough slack. For power I fastened a power strip to inside of the bottom left cubby hole, where the speaker is sitting (you can see the light in the picture) since that is the spot where it was going to work best for me. Of course adjust it as you see fit.
I'll update the pictures once I get the cable management situation settled, but I'm very happy with it. The turntable is at the perfect height for a 6' (183cm) person, but not too tall for someone a bit shorter. Also, you can see that I've got plenty of room for my LPs, they're organized alphabetically and above the right speaker I'm storing my extra outer & inner sleeves, as well as cleaning supplies & anti-static brushes. This way I have room for overflow when my collection outgrows the space allotted in the other cubby holes.
There you have it, I hope it comes in handy for someone else. I love it :)
* - I used a rented mitre saw for this, but a table saw would have worked much better since I would not have had to flip the shelves over to make the full cut. But hey, it IS a hack...
~ Brandon Wolfgang, United States
Materials: GRUNDTAL Rails, 20 or 25mm MDF, Flat Head Hex Bolts
Description: Time to improve the sound of your bookshelf speakers.
Design is pretty straight forward but you will need a moderate amount of skill and some basic power tools.
Top and bottom plates can be made with any dense material (HDF, MDF or metal is ideal because they will not compress or split) I cut the shape using my speaker box as a template but you could also make the bottom slightly larger and/or double thickness for more stability. Finish with a lacquer or satin enamel paint for best results and use grippy foam pads to hold the speakers in place.
GRUNDTAL Rails come in 40, 60, and 80cm (GRUNDTAL wall shelf) They make for a sturdy and modern looking stand and should support most bookshelf speakers. Lateral support is a tradeoff with this design so place in a low traffic area or use additional rails per stand. Be creative with your rail (post) layout however having them close to the edge will increase stability.
Monday, October 15, 2012
Description: You will use all the components of the LILLHOLMEN bathroom accessories stand except for the small tray. This is a very easy hack that requires no tools - just some string to hang the feeder with. Assemble the bird feeder screwing them together by hand in the following order: screw on the bottom, then medium tray, then the thick stem, then the tapered stem, then the large tray (upside down), then the hook on top.
Fill with bird seed and hang safely away from squirrels and cats. The design of this feeder is similar to those of much more expensive feeders that are marketed as "squirrel safe". It's just the right size for smaller birds.
~ Mark Papamarcos
Materials: RÄCKA Curtain Rod, SYRLIG Curtain Ring with Clip and Hook, BETYDLIG Wall/Ceiling Bracket, Petit Key Rings, Cable Ties, Copper Chain
Description: 1) Install RÄCKA Curtain Rod with SYRLIG Curtain Rings & Hooks.
1.1 - Length of RÄCKA Curtain Rod to be determined depending on desired spacing between bottles.
2) Cut Copper Chain into desired lengths. May vary length depending on hanging style.
3) Prepare Champagne Dummy Bottles
3.1 - Drill Holes through the Bottle Corks.
3.2 - Affix curtain ties with petit key rings. Ensure that curtain ties are tightly fastened.