Media Storage 18

Published on July 1st, 2008 | by Jules Yap


Shutters for the Oppli

Thomas hacked some rolling doors for his Oppli media unit. I can’t find the link to the Oppli on Ikea’s site, so it may not longer be in production.

He says, “My intention was noise reduction. The Playstation 3 and my HTPC are a little bit loud for some music or film.

18 17

I thought it could be a good idea to mount some doors to my OPPLI. Ready made products were too expensive, so I did it myself.”


Click here to view Thomas’ step by step pictures with instructions. But they are in German. I did ask for a translation but Thomas could not provide us with it. Anyone?

Thanks Chloe and Tim who sent me translations, as well as the many translation and suggestions in the comments. So I now give you the English version of Thomas’ hack. Please refer to images on Thomas’ site.

I keep my TV and Hi Fi components in an Oppli from Ikea.  Recently I added a PS3 and HTPC as well. These aren’t the cheapest devices around and I find them intrusive while watching quiet films or listening to CD’s, so I wanted to put doors on the appropriate parts of the cabinet.

To my mind the most elegant solution is rolling shutters.  There are some companies that make these to order, but they don’t come cheap (and rightly so), so my handyman skills are required. After a quick check on the internet it didn’t seem an impossible task.  The basic steps, in principle, are as follows:

1. For the shutter:  connect pieces of an appropriate material together from behind, by gluing them to a piece of fabric for example.
2. Add a handle.
3. Mill an L-shaped groove into the piece of furniture, as a track for the shutter to run in.
4. Install the shutter.

Doesn’t sound too complicated, does it?  The Devil’s in the details, but don’t let that put you off just yet!


The sections measure approximately 44.6 cm x 26 cm (WxH).  The shutter needs to be a little bit longer, because the curved track means it won’t sit flush against the top of the cabinet.

The shutter mat needs to be approximately 46cm wide and at least 30 cm high.  From one piece of moulding I can make about 10 cm worth of mat, so I need at least 6 pieces. Because things don’t always go smoothly for the handyman I get 8.  At €1.99 each that’s not too painful.

Shopping List:

1. Lengths of moulding, called “wallpaper moulding”.  2400mm x 20mm x 5mm.  It also comes in other widths and thicknesses.
2. Glue/adhesive.  I used Ponal X-Pert (construction adhesive) with a caulking gun, because it’s ideal for bonding wood to wood, plastic, and metal.
3. Handles.


1. First I cut the pieces of moulding to the required length (46 cm) with a saw.  To get them as close to the same length as possible I tied them in a bundle and cut them together.

2. This is what it looks like with the mouldings laid out next to each other.

3. I found a piece of fabric to glue to the back of the mouldings at home.  It’s lightweight, not stretch but very flexible.  Feels a bit like felt, but it isn’t.

4. I lined up the moulding on an old table top, exactly square and with the left edge aligned, and very carefully fixed the edges so nothing could slip.  Then I put a strip of glue on each individual piece, laid the fabric over the top and pressed it on gently.

5. I used my border pieces to clamp the edges.  In the middle I just smoothed the fabric by hand.  Ideally you’d use a board to provide even compression over the entire surface.

6. The side panel of the Oppli, where I am going to put a groove using a router.  To avoid getting the 4 sides confused I marked the edge where the groove will go with an arrow pointing up.

7. Upon reading the manual for my router again I noticed that it can be used with a template, as the device has a guard which can be run along the edge of the template keeping it at the exact distance required.  This has the definite advantage of being able to make every groove (and particularly the curves) exactly the same.  The router bit is 6.4 mm in diameter, which should be a good fit for the 5 mm mouldings.

8. I made a template from an old piece of a cupboard wall.

9. I used a slide rule to position the template at exactly the same distance from each edge.  Apart from the aesthetic effect, this is important so that the shutter doesn’t warp.

10. All elements fixed into place, so that nothing slips during the routing.

11. This is what the finished track looks like.  As far as the depth of the groove goes, you need to leave a couple of millimetres on each side so that the shutter can move freely.  I had to deepen it after the first try, because the shutter was held too stiffly.

12. First test, in the kitchen.  I am satisfied.  My concern that the radius of the curve may be too small and the individual mouldings would warp was unfounded.  Everything seems to run smoothly.

Approximately 4 – 5 hours, with cigarette breaks

Approx. €12 for the mouldings
Approx. €8 for the adhesive
Approx €16 for the handles

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The Author

Jules Yap

"I am Jules, the engine behind IKEAHackers and the one who keeps this site up and running. My mission is to capture all the wonderful, inspiring, clever hacks and ideas for our much loved IKEA items".

13 Responses to Shutters for the Oppli

  1. Anonymous says:

    Make sure to consider that PS3′s are known for their tendancy to over heat if not given proper air ventilation…

  2. Mackie says:

    i like the hack, it gives the whole thing a good clean look.

  3. Anonymous says:

    Cough (Breadbin) Cough

  4. penix says:

    uh, this is a really bad idea. the ps3 will die if you don’t give it room to breathe

  5. pxlgirl says:

    Not a perfect translation, but probably good enough to follow!!

    I installed my TV and HiFi components in a OPPLI of IKEA. Recently I also added a PS3 and a HTPC. Since both devices aren’t the quietest, and are disturbing during quiet film passages or when I want to listen to CDs, I wanted to put a door in front of them.

    The most elegant solution in my eyes is a roller-type shutter. There are companies who will make these to your measurements, but they (rightfully) charge alot. Thus my crafty talents are demanded.

    After a first Internet search it doesn’t seem to be impossible. The approach is in principle the following:

    1. For the Roller: bind some suitable strips together in the back, by e.g. gluing material on.
    2. Attach a handle.
    3. Route an L-shaped groove as a track into the furniture piece.
    4. Install the roller.

    At first it sounds not all too complicated. I know however that the devil is in the details. But don’t be discouraged!

    Initial considerations

    Measures of the opening are approx. 44,6cmx26cm (WxH). The Roller must be somewhat longer, since by the folding process the Roller will not completely close above.

    The roller-type shutter must become approx. 46cm wide and min. 30cm high. Each strip (see below) is about 10cm. After doing the math I need about 6 strips. Since the do-it-yourself enthusiast often makes mistakes I buy eight. With a unit price of 1,99€ this doesn’t hurt much.

    Purchase list

    1. Strips, called carpetrunners. 2400mm x 20mm x 5mm. However these are available in other widths and thicknesses.
    2. Adhesive/glue. I used Ponal X-Pert taken in a cartouche, since it is suitable for gluing wood to wood, wood to plastic, and wood to metal.
    3. Handles.

    The work procedures

    (pic) First I cut the borders with a cutting saw to the same length (46cm). I tied the 2,4m long strips into a bundle and cut all at once, so that if possible all have those accurately same length.

    (pic) It looks like this, if one lines the strips up as a test.

    (pic) I found material for sticking the strips together on the back at home. It is light, doesn’t tear, however it’s very flexible. Feels somewhat like felt, but it isn’t.

    (pic) On an old desk I aligned the strips left justified and exactly parallel at 90 degrees to the edge of the desk. Then lined up the edges neatly, so that nothing slips. (note: Looks like he uses clamps and rulers to keep everything aligned) Now I laid a strip of Ponal X-Pert on each individual strip, laid out the cloth and pressed slightly.

    (pic) Material glued on and in place, I compressed the edges with my two extra strips. In the middle I pressed the material on by hand, although a total surface compression with a board is surely more optimal.

    (pic) The Oppli side part into which I will router a groove. So as not to confuse the four pieces with each other, I marked it with an arrow pointing up.

    (pic) After I read the guide to my router, I realize that I can work with a template, since the equipment has an appropriate attachment. That offers naturally the crucial advantage that each groove, and above all each roundness are accurately alike. The routing bit is 6,4mm in diameter, which should fit the 5mm borders very well.

    (pic) From a piece of former cabinet rear wall I manufactured myself the routing template.

    (pic) I adjust the caliper gauge in such a way that the groove will be cut at the same distance from the edge of each piece. Aside from good looks, this is important so that the rollers don’t get stuck.

    (pic) All workpieces well clamped, so that when routing nothing slips.

    (pic) Here’s how the finished groove looks. As far as the depth of the groove, one should leave some room on either side, so that the roller can move problem-free in the groove. After my first attempt I had to do over again, because the Roller sat too tight.

    (pic) A test fit in the kitchen. I am content. My concerns that the radius of the bend could be to small and the individual strips miscut were unfounded. Everything seems to move well.

    The assembly


    The final result

    I am very proud of the result, because it functioned perfectly and I think it looks good.


    Expenditure of time

    approx. 4-5 hours with cigarette breaks


    approx. 12€ for the borders

    approx. 8€ for the adhesive

    approx. 16€ for the handles

    As always I welcome comments.

  6. Just stumbled on your blog. I am obsessed with Ikea. I love this blog!

  7. Emma says:

    Google toolbar has a translation button. It works fairly well.

  8. Anonymous says:

    You can use Yahoo’s BabelFish to translate web pages. It’s not gramatically correct, but you can get the jist.

  9. Kentanner11 says:

    You can use google translator:

    Just copy and paste into your browser (if it isnt click-able)

    Thanks for such a great blog!!!!

    Tanner from

  10. chezdavis says:

    Copy/paste the url to Google Translate and select German to English. I can’t vouch for the accuracy, but the English translation makes sense to me.

  11. Anonymous says:

    I used Yahoo’s Babelfish translation to translate the whole website. Havent read it thru so I dont know if its useful in anyway. Heres the link:

  12. Nick says:

    Google translate does a half-decent job.

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