Bedroom

Published on January 17th, 2008 | by Jules IKEAHacker

32

save moolah and space with the moddi murphybed





lisa sent me a link to moddi murphybed as she was wondering whether anyone out there has built one and if it was any good. so, if you have, please comment away!

for $7.95 you get a set of moddi murphybed building instructions that lets you build a hideaway bed for less than $275. way cheaper than the original murphy bed.

now, why it earns a spot on this blog is simply that the moddi uses ikea! you’ll need a lillehammer bed frame, 8 lack side tables and a sultan lade slatted bed base besides a whole plethora of hardware, nuts and blots to make a twin moddi murphybed. more if you’re cranking out a double.

i was really hoping to get a good look at the whole contraption but their gallery is down for now. bummer. anyways i managed to find these 2 photos on the site and it does look like a fabulous solution for small spaces. it may not be all that easy to build though.

moddi murphy bedmoddi murphy bed do you have a moddi murphybed? let us know if it works for you.

click to buy the moddi murphybed building instructions or to view the parts list.

More hacks on IKEAHackers.net
announcing the ikea hack of 2007
no space? create storage under the bed


The Author

Jules IKEAHacker

"I am Jules, the engine behind IKEAHackers and the one who keeps this site up and running. My mission is to capture all the wonderful, inspiring, clever hacks and ideas for our much loved IKEA items".

32 Responses to save moolah and space with the moddi murphybed

  1. Anonymous says:

    One of the best hacks yet. You would never think there’s a bed under there. So artsy! (You could probably fancy up the table-tops, also/)

  2. Brilliant!
    I might just have to “steal” this idea for my (small) apartment.

  3. M2JL says:

    I totally agree. Very clever.

  4. Alina says:

    My only problem with this is the “attach the sucker to the wall” bit. Must buy my own place…

  5. TerriLuv2Hack says:

    Great hack. My friend built one and didn’t even know it was a bed. I told her to send you pic. Luv it!

  6. Laura Rich says:

    I’m looking for someone to build this thing for me. Can anyone suggest a good contractor in Manhattan?

  7. greeps says:

    I built the double recently. Fairly experienced woodworker. I used MDF as called for in the specs, but it is just not structurally sound enough. Use 3/4 plywood to avoid having it fall apart. It will be marignally more money. It does look very cool.

  8. Charles says:

    On the off chance that greeps or someone else who built the double size moddi is reading this, can someone post a picture of what the finished product looks like (mainly down, as all of the stock pictures show it up). Also, does anyone know the maximum thickness of mattress that will fit in this? Thanks

  9. Anonymous says:

    Has anyone come up with a creative idea for legs for a double/full moddi? The ones in the directions are not very cool.

    Also, one of my gas springs keep popping off. Any idea?

  10. Raymond says:

    The wall attachment doesn’t seem that strong, despite how cool it looks.

    If I make this I’ll be adding fold-up leg attachments to enhance the strength, and I probably won’t be getting my rent deposit back, but you almost NEVER get them back anyways! LoL

  11. Holly says:

    I had a couple questions. I just purchased the plans for the double. I am concerned that the gas springs are only rated for 200 lbs. That’s 400 lbs for the entire thing. Not sure how much the bed itself weighs, but that seems to cut it close in weight. My husband and I likely wouldn’t be able to sleep in it.

    Do the addition of the legs correct this issue? And do the legs just slide in and out so you don’t leave them on while the bed is in the up position?

  12. Charles says:

    Hi Holly, I built the double bed last summer and am happy to answer your questions. The gas springs are only used for raising and lowering the bed. They act as a counterweight to the mattress so it is relatively easy to fold the bed up and down from the wall. You have three options regarding supporting the bed once it is down. 1st, you could mount it low enough on the wall that it rests on the floor when it is lowered. 2nd, you could attach the legs as instructed (but personally I found that this detracted from the attractiveness of the bed when it is folded up). 3rd, you could obtain a few foam blocks, or a long foam strip to lay down under the unsupported side of the bed when it is lowered. These blocks/strip could be easily stashed when the bed is raised. Hope this helps

  13. saacsmama says:

    Charles,

    I’m so glad to see recent comments from someone who has actually done one of these!! I really want to build one before my parents come visit (now only 1 month away) but have a bunch of questions. Anyone else who knows the answers, please chime in!

    I’m planning to use the plywood greeps suggests here and on another blog. Several folks have mentioned problems with the directions as written, but I haven’t seen them specified. Can anyone tell me what they changed?

    Would something like this http://www.matratzendiscount.de/Lattenroste/Otten-Dreambed-KF-Extra-Spirit-KF::106.html work instead of the Lada?

    Last but not least, I’m going to build the double bed size, but am not sure how much I’ll have to rearrange the rest of the furniture/exactly where on the wall to attach it. How wide is it / how far does it extend from the wall it’s attached to when it is open?

    please email me at saacnmama@hotmail.com

    Thanks!

  14. Anonymous says:

    Hi All,

    Our handyman just finished building a Moddi Twin Murphy bed for us. While it works and we are mostly happy with it, the materials cost us very nearly twice the supposed $275, and it took a few full days to build. In addition, the Moddi plans have a handful of errors, some serious. Most important is the need to use 3/4″ plywood (NOT MDF) for the supporting structure which is attached to the wall. Also, the gas springs and brackets did not fit together when we ordered them (using the exact part numbers listed on the plans), and it took 2 additional shipments and quite a long time on the phone with MSC Industrial (who are very nice people) to get it right. In addition, note that the latch is not necessary — you can omit it due to the pressure of the springs keeping the bed firmly up.

    Due to their structural weakness and the fact that they add unnecessary width and height to a product which is supposed to save space, you may want to consider not using the Ikea LACK side tables at all. Put the rest of the bed together and you will easily find an attractive alternative for them (paint, paneling, etc..).

    Finally, note that the gas springs are VERY strong (200 lbs of pressure each, impossible for the handyman or myself to compress using our own strength. They are probably at least 30-40% stronger than they need to be, and this is the main reason why you need plywood and not MDF. I mention this again because it’s a bit unnerving to have so much pressure so close to one’s sleeping head, and this is one of my misgivings about the bed. For some, the potential safety issue could be a dealbreaker.

    Again, in the end it works and allows us to have a twin bed in a room which would otherwise not accomodate one. Still, it ain’t perfect by any means. And good luck with Moddi customer service — no phone number anywhere, and no reply to my email.

  15. Anonymous says:

    Just got done building a double bed and I hit a few stumbling blocks along the way, but all in all it was a pretty easy project.

    I did eliminate the gate latch as suggested and just used the simple bolt method. Much easier and works better.

    I also ended up using some extra screws into the lack table tops to stiffin them up a bit.

    My main issues were with the springs. I had to adjust the brackets at the top three times to get them in the right spot. However, I am still having trouble with the springs popping off. I went back and ordered the safety clips (ran me about $1.00 for 4 of them). Now my problem is that if you imagine the springs and bracket as a ball and socket joint, with the bracket being the ball and the spring being the socket. Either the ball is too small or the socket is too big and the safety clips do nothing.

    Anyone else have this issue and if so, do they make bigger brackets so I don’t have to order new springs?

    Jim

  16. Anonymous says:

    This plan sucks.

    1) It calls for MDF which is complete trash for something that is bearing the constant weight of the bed and has to open and close day and night.

    2) It has this support system that the “inventor” didn’t think through. Theres a wide piece of MDF that is suppose to stretch long enough for you to screw it to 4 studs. Sounds sturdy right? but then there are these two side panels that are the ones you pretty much rest the weight of the bed on. THOSE TWO ARE HELD ONTO THE LARGE PANEL VIA 3 SCREWS EACH. FREAKIN IDIOT. Thats like having a strong door, strong hinges and then instead of placing the bolt in to hold the door and hinges you place a piece of string and expect it to hold tight. Such a long piece isn’t needed. It’s better if you get maybe 2 long pieces of 2x4s and use those instead. A lot stronger and you can even use bolts on the side panels to secure it to the 2x4s.

    3) They advertise it as a “free standing” bed. As if it wouldn’t need legs because it doesn’t show the picture of it WITH legs. It WILL NEED LEGS. The design isn’t intended to be used without legs. Anyone here who does, good luck because that thing will bust your face open when it breaks off.

    4) The bolts should use a locking washer. Or some lock-tight. Otherwise expect the nuts on the bolt sliding of at one point or another.

    5) They never updated their plans even after their customers pointed out huge flaws. Best read their whole customers blog posts because they are the smart ones.

    6) The guy pretty much wont answer any emails and made it pretty secure to not have to even be emailed or contacted.

  17. Anonymous says:

    Thanks for the instructions link. Could you be so kind to post the materials list, if you have it?

  18. kevreh says:

    First, for the FRAME ditch the mdf…too weak. I used a quality 3/4″ plywood and its much stronger.

    These plans really arent supported by the owner anymore. The owner locked the blog so there’s no way to communicate with him and others. I suspect the newer gas spring he specifies is wrong (#81999138). This spring comes fully extended and provides 200lbs of pressure when CLOSING. This would ADD to the weight, not help, when lifting a heavy bed.

    I’m a little peeved and frustrated and wish he didn’t lock the blog so at least the community could provide support.

    If I am wrong on this and am missing something (maybe because I bought the directions in 2008) then please let me know.

    Thanks

    • Anonymous says:

      You probably figured this out by now, but see my comment below regarding the action of the gas springs–counterintuitive. I was puzzled at first, too.

  19. Anonymous says:

    I just recently found a need for a horizontal wall bed and found Moddi murphy bed. But the only drawback right now is the discontinued Eina frame. Anyone found a suitable Full bed frame for the Moddi? Thanks

  20. Anonymous says:

    please upload instructions again, rapidshare link is dead
    thanks

  21. Anonymous says:

    me encanta y quiero comprar las instrucciones. pero ¿como puedo hacerlo en castellano?

  22. Anonymous says:

    Yes, be warned the plans have lots of little errors and you have to make significant adjustments for whatever bed frame Ikea happens to be carrying at the time. The plans don’t give you a good “overview” so that you can see where you are going and why you are doing certain things. So, for example, the holes you drill for the hinges–you should know ahead of time how thick your mattress is and the needed clearance from the wall, then you should look carefully at your side pieces for the bed frame and the side pieces for the caddy. Drill the holes for the big hinge accordingly. I had to sit with graph paper and sort it all out, unfortunately, after I drilled the holes as specified using a much smaller height side panel bed frame from Ikea. And I wasted $25 on that gate latch, which just got in the way. And however much the MDF cost, which I do not trust at all and am going to replace before proceeding further.

    The other big thing to note is that your gas springs must be installed closer to the wall than the hinge. That’s why you need the caddy and can’t just hinge to the wall. The idea is that the upright bed position must have the longer (resting) length of the gas spring. As you pull it down the gas spring shortens, against pressure, thereby resisting the downward weight of the bed and assisting in the upright closure. The only way for this to work properly is for the gas springs to be closer to the wall than the hinge and then you attach the clip when it is upright (resting, extended). It’s counterintuitive. Metal springs work the other way.

    The photos are definitely wrong when they show intallation of the bracket for the gas spring on the bed box. It is backwards–look at later pictures and you will see it is correctly positioned for the ball to face into the bed, just as the ones on the caddy are.

    Hope this helps others. That guy who sells the plans site should be shut down or a warning posted. Or he should just open it up and make it an open source project. As it is it is just a source of frustration.

  23. Anonymous says:

    One more addition to the above. I have about given up on the gas springs. They are seriously way too strong. I have tried two different kinds of brackets and measured very carefully, but when installed properly, they just have so much force that they can actually bend the metal brackets and/or pull the brackets loose from the bed frame. I would be extremely afraid to sleep with my head anywhere near one of those springs. I’m taking them off. I don’t think it is worth having your head busted open.

  24. Anonymous says:

    May someone please post a true to date parts list because it seems like everything online is outdated, thanks.

  25. Just starting up a blog for those who are looking for fixes for the Moddi Bed here: http://fixthemoddi.blogspot.com/

    Includes a link for instructions & links to other sites listing issues and fixes.

    • LikeWhatever says:

      Hi Leslie, iv’e followed the link to your blog, however there still doesnt seem to be any clear instructions out there detailing exactly what i need to buy and how to assemble a Murphy Bed for $275 without having the springs capult me to mars.

      Anyone have a link to a detailed plan that actually works?

    • Lol – I understand! I actually followed the Moddi bed instructions that I linked to on the blog, completely left off the springs, and my brother reinforced the wall mount (MDF) with metal corner bead – the bed is Super heavy, but it works and I’ve used it maybe 15 times over the last two weeks now! I couldn’t tell you how much I actually spent…I bought the supplies a long time ago and just finally finished assembling it this year, so I can’t speak to that. But, I will say that as heavy as this sucker is, it does work for me – for security, I also put latches and chain door locks on both sides – I hope to add pictures of what I did on my blog soon – sorry it didn’t link you to any other helpful info – just getting started! Take care & good luck!

  26. Anonymous says:

    Has anyone who used the moddi bed instructions think that it can be altered to fit a queen?

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