"i'm trying to figure out which bookcase would be best for lots of books (meaning something in which the shelves won't be prone to sagging). the space for the bookshelf is approximately 76" long by 18" deep by 102" high. i have a nice galant desk setup in beech veneer, and would like to match that finish if possible. i'd like the shelves to fill up the space as much as possible." - kristine
kristine,for heavy books, it would be better to choose shelving made from solid wood. the particleboard bookcases such as the billy or bonde system tend to sag under weight. as for solid wood bookcases, you do quite a few choices, though colour wise, you're not so lucky. the norrebo (pic) in solid birch is a modular shelving system that lets you cover as much space as you want but the colour is not a great match. or you can also try the leksvik or ivar, which you could stain to match your desk.
other ideas?
Kristine,
ReplyDeleteThe main thing is to look for shelves w/ the shortest span (under 36")...also, while solid wood IS less likely to sag, in compasison to MDF/particleboard-BOTH of them will deflect under too much load vs the "span" .
Some cabinetmakers will add a strip of wood (3/4" by 1.25") VERTICALLY attached the the front ( bottom )edge of the shelf- giving it more rigidity.
An IKEA unit like the "EXPEDIT" is great for that reason- the span is only about 12".
Randall
I use Billy for my books, each shelf holds 30 kilos and if they're not too high you can put in more extra shelves inside, also possible to put an extra section on top if the ceiling isn't too low and it comes in many colours and fake woods. Cheap and practical.
ReplyDeleteI have my Billy bookshelves packed solid with books and have had no sagging after about 6 years. The span is 30 inches, I believe.
ReplyDeleteGood particleboard is sturdier than solid wood.
ReplyDeleteIn Sweden Billy is loved by booklovers because it's cheeper and more durable than solid wood.
Unfortunatly, IKEA use different contractors and slightly different quality assessment in different regions, so I can't say if it is as good in other parts of the world.
Every particleboard set of shelves I've owned sagged after a few years. I added "U" shaped aluminum from Home Depot to wrap the long edge of the shelf. It looks fine in front, but will fit on the back and be hidden.
ReplyDeleteI have had hundreds of books stored on about 16' of Ivar for 3-4 nyears now with no sagging or deformation.
ReplyDeleteI have a Noreebo and love it more than any other piece of furniture ever. It divides the space between my kitchen and living room (one giant room) and I can keep books on the living room side and things like extra mugs, bottles of booze, and cookbooks on the kitchen side.
ReplyDeleteIt is wonderful!
I clicked into the comments to say mostly what Randall said: keep the shelves narrow and thick (1" or so), and the bookcase should support the weight. The strip of wood on the front edge of the shelf only works if it's the long grain across the front... if it were presenting a decoratively stripy edge it wouldn't have much effect. It needs to be an inch wide, and it's my impression it should actually be nailed across the front of the shelf at a right angle to the shelf. Henry Petroski's book "The Book on the Bookshelf" covers this and many other things in great detail.
ReplyDeleteAnd yeah, I'd take a look at Expedit, for the thickness of the shelves relative to their width. Some ppl keep vinyl record collections on them. Isn't it hollow, though? Not sure what effect that would have.
I use Enteri for 4 years now, the more books I put on it the more stable it gets. Doesn't look like it, but it actually works.
ReplyDeleteIvar also works, a friend had Ivars filled with these heavy science hardcover books for years.
all my billy bookcases sagged under the weight of books or videos or whatever... especially the back. i would definitely add something to the back to make that part more solid.
ReplyDeletehowever, I have an expedit unit that is amazing! holds a vinyl collections and tons of books.
For big/tall books, like textbooks, I am very fond of the tall/narrow Markkor wood shelves. The narrow spans are very solid. They are also lighter and easier to move than the particle board equivalents, and I like the trim. I am using a pair of these to fit in some narrow spaces around an air conditioner. You won't get maximum density with these shelves, though.
ReplyDeleteMy Billy bookcases bought in the UK were crammed full of softback novels and sagged in less than a year.
ReplyDeletei used a glass shelf on top of my shorter billy bookcase b/c i was using it as a TV stand in a bedroom and no sagging! now i put a glass shelf on top of solid shelves that have a lot of weight on them. it is very humid in the summer where i live - i think that speeds the sagging.
ReplyDeleteHow about if I wanted to reinforce existing, sagging billy shelves? Or, does anyone have ideas on reinforcing a new purchase?
ReplyDeleteThe ticker a shelf is the more resistant to bending, attaching a batten deeper (say 4cm) than the thickness of the shelf (usually around 15mm) but level at the top gives a lot of rigidity. It doesn't have to be thick - 10mm is enough. If you've got an open backed bookcase (such as the Enetrri or Norebo) then you can add a further strip at the back - which if flush with the bottom edge of the shelf gives a lip to stop your stuff falling out!
ReplyDeleteIf you're going to go down this route then a MDF or solid wood shelf gives much better attachment to the batten than foil over chip board.
Screw and glue the batten onto the shelf edge or, if you're handy with a drill, drill through the batten into the self and attach with dowls / glue and panel pins to hold it in place. Screws/dowels every 20cm or so.